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Details
Bugs:
Mmm-mmm Good!
December
1999
by Bruce Fellman
On a
typical Saturday or Sunday, Yale's Peabody Museum of Natural History
is a pretty popular place,
but on the weekend of September 25-26, the venerable institution
absolutely swarmed with parents and children. The attraction, however,
wasn't the dinosaurs, the dioramas, the rocks and minerals, the
African masks, or any of the other objects on display. Rather, the
crowds came for the arachnids -- specifically, for a taste of "orthopteran
orzo," "scorpion scallopini," and "white chocolate chip and waxworm
cookies," all washed down, of course, with "bug juice."
The occasion
was the Peabody's first -- and, to judge from the response, probably
first annual -- "Edible Insects Weekend." This celebration of all
things invertebrate was sponsored by People's Bank and featured
a wide range of activities for parents and children. Storytellers
spun tales about Bernice the Bee and Anansi the Spider, museum curators
hosted "bring your bugs in for identification" sessions, and forensic
entomologist William Krinsky gave a lecture, for adults only, called
"The Dead Can't Talk, But Their Maggots Can."
But the
star of the show was chef David George Gordon, author of The Eat-A-Bug
Cookbook (Ten Speed Press, 1998), a tome that both explores and
encourages the practice of entomophagy (eating insects and other
creatures without backbones) through such recipes as Three Bee Salad,
Really Hoppin' John, and Pest-O (garden weevils in a creamy basil
sauce). For standing-room-only crowds, Gordon offered a three-course
dinner to those with adventurous palates. As people eyed the crickets
and pasta and other dishes that featured arachnids in a starring
role, there were the expected choruses of "I'm not gonna eat that,"
and "ewwwww." Such comments did not, however, stop the feast.
"We didn't
throw anything out," says Evelyn E. Willett, a teacher at the Peabody
who coordinated the weekend event and baked the waxworm cookies,
whose main ingredient came from an insect farm and tasted "rather
like a pistachio nut."
The appeal
of the unusual fare did not surprise Charles L. Remington, professor
emeritus of ecology and evolutionary
biology and one of the world's experts on entomophagy. "People eat
insects regularly in almost all parts of the globe except this country,"
says Remington. "They can be an important source of protein."
Several
years ago, the scientist had a chance to host his own bug dinner.
The occasion was the much-heralded emergence of the periodical cicada,
an insect that spends the first 17 years of its life underground
before taking to the trees for a brief adulthood. When a reporter
asked why the creature spent so much time underground, Remington
replied that it was a survival strategy.
"This
is the most tasty insect in the world," he explained. Remington
meant "tasty to blue jays and robins," but members of the media
thought he was referring to humans. Never one to shy away from an
experiment, the scientist stir-fried a batch of fresh cicadas. The
response was similar to that of the hungry crowds at the Peabody.
"At least half of the reporters came back for seconds," says Remington.
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